The Duke of Windsor’s Sartorial Style | Formalwear

Kenneth Jay Lane, the jewelry designer, and a friend, said he never paid too much attention to the Duke’s wardrobe when he saw him, which he considers a great compliment.  ”When you see a perfectly dressed man, you don’t think about it,” he said.  But he recalled that the Duke was very aware of fashion.

”Once when I went to dinner at their house,” Mr. Lane said, ”I was wearing one of the first black velvet tuxedos, and he commented on my ensemble right away.”

The morning coat and trousers worn to his wedding, with a different waistcoat. Jacket by Scholte is a herringbone cashmere weave and is marked H.M. The King, 25.1.36. Waistcoat matches the jacket and marked same. The morning trousers are by Forster & Son and marked 9.6.32

This was bought by the CEO of Kiton for $27,600.  Mr. Paone, who also purchased several other items from the Duke’s wardrobe, knew the Duke of Windsor and admired his style. He plans to exhibit the suit and other items in his Kiton stores and in other stores that carry his clothing around the world.

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The Duke of Windsor’s Sartorial Style

”I was in fact produced as a leader of fashion, with the clothiers as my showmen and the world as my audience,” the Duke once recalled.

The Duke of Windsor stood only 5′ 5″ and favored comfort in his clothes, free movement and a style that he referred to as ”Dress Soft.”  His jacket waists were uniformly set high to elongate his silhouette.  His pockets were cut wider on the left side of the trousers to accommodate his ever-present cigarette case.  He wore elasticized girdles inset beneath his waistbands to preserve the flat appearance of his stomach.  He tweaked the proportions of all his clothes, Mr. Bolton said, for effect.  ”Even when he wore a lot of patterns, which are a no-no for small people,” making them seem squat, the Duke gave the impression of being a taller man.

The Duke’s dressing room at the Paris residence with a suit (above) in medium-weight worsted with darker blue checking.  The jacket is dated 16/11/56 by Scholte, London and the trousers dated 3/4/57 by Harris, New York.  Jacket has side vents and substantially padded shoulders.  

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Drakes London

Founded in 1977, Drakes remains under the directorship of Michael Drake and Isabel Dickson, two of the original founders. The original collection comprised of mens’ scarvesand accessories, a range of English handmade ties and linen handkerchiefs quickly followed. Drakes are now the largest independent producer of handmade ties in England. Over the years Drakes has won many accolades for design and export achievement, including the Queens award for Export and the BKCEC award for UK British fashion exports.

Michael Drake’s original concept for the company style was that what ever was produced had to have a refined English look that would be endorsed by the best shops in Milan and Paris. The rationale was that if the two most discerning markets in the world were won over, satisfying the rest of the world would be relatively easy by comparison.

Having met Michael Drake, I can confidently state that the man is the real deal.  He places his brand’s quality and reputation before all else. 

 

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John Lobb – English makers of the finest shoes and boots that money can buy.

 

 

 

 

At John Lobb they like to say that comparing ready-made footwear to made-to-measure footwear is “like comparing chalk to cheese.”  With Royal Warrants proudly displayed, the legendary shop in the shadow of St. James’s Palace is a treasure to behold and a mecca for those who can afford and appreciate the finest English footwear.  There’s a great old story at Lobb about a customer many years ago- he waltzed into the shop with an elephant’s ear over his arm requesting that Lobb make him a pair of shoes.  They did.  

 

 

 

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Tommy Nutter | Savile Row Strutter.

Tommy Nutter will always be known as the flamboyant bee in Savile Row’s stuffy bonnet.  It was the late 60s, and narrow suits ruled the day.  Trained as traditional tailor, the sexy and innovative Nutter was not happy following the status quo of Savile Row and literally took matters into his own hands.

He created a sensation with his bold, signature look- wide shoulders and unapologetic lapels.  Nutter became the darling of the celebrity scene- clothing the likes of Mick & Bianca Jagger, Elton John and The Beatles.

His influence can still be seen today, through a legacy of apprentices who trained under him, and in the young new designers of today who are discovering his work.   Tommy Nutter has forever left a mark on Savile Row, and defined a moment in time when bigger truly was better.

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