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« Operation Overcoat | An Illustrated History, circa 1951
Short Attention Span | Esquire 1956 »

Operation Overcoat | An Illustrated History II, circa 1951

February 21, 2009 by JP

 

Beginnings of Some

Famous Overcoat Fashions

 

overcoat7

Lord Raglan’s Design

Opposite of Lord Chesterield’s fitted coat

The Raglan.  Originally the coat tailored for Lord Raglan was a tweed wrap which kept off the foggy chill while its wearer was shooting grouse.  What remained of the basic style was the Raglan Shoulder which was a marked departure from the set-in type.  It is still a favorite among men who want a more casual look in their overcoats.


overcoat8

The Inverness

Too elaborate a fashion for today’s occasions

The Inverness.  This combination coat and cloak, without sleeves, was lined with silk and was a convenient and comfortable slip-on for wear with evening clothes.  It never attained much popularity, even when it was considered de rigeur for men to wear formal clothes after dark; possibly the American male regarded it as somewhat feminine in appearance.


overcoat9

 

Shell-lined Coat

Returns in the form of the Station Wagon Coat

 

The Shell Lined Coat.  The original of this style was lined an d finished with a collar and cuffs of expensive fur which, together with the bulky outer cloth, acted as a bulwark against the cold while traveling.  The advent of newer forms of transportation, and steam heating in all types of buildings, removed the functional necessity for this type of coat.  It disappeared for many years, but returned in the form of the Station Wagon Coat when auto travel and suburban living became national in scope.  Today’s version is far lighter in weight, due to improved technology in weaving non-porous fabrics; the silk frogs have given place to either buttons or slide fasteners; and tweed vies with solid weaves for favor.


overcoat10

Short Covert Coat

prototype of today’s fingertip coat for outdoors

The Short Covert Coat.  The active sports enthusiast adopted this hip-length coat when he decided to walk short distances instead of riding.  This is another fashion which expired for lack of reason-for-being until the wide development of hunting and fishing in this country suggested its revival and modification.  Recent versions, which range in length from hip- to fingertip-length, are also popular on the collage campus.  Twills and gabardines are the most widely used fabrics.


overcoat6

The Coonskin Coat

phenomenon of the mad 20’s


overcoat41

The Great Coat

for 19th Century open transportation


overcoat5

The Polo Coat

almost a century old and still sound fashion

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Via Gypsy Wear

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