Esquire 1950 | The Original Mr. “T”

Mr. “T’

Esquire’s Trim New Look Take Over

A fashion tornado has swept the country ever since Esquire’s premier showing last month of the new Mr. T fashions that will dominate your wardrobe from now on. Here’s exclusive chapter #2.

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Short Attention Span | Esquire 1956

Esquire menswear magazine’s fashion spread on top shorts for the summer of 1956.

 

The shorts story is longer than ever before, in terms of style and fabrics. Ever since Esquire made the first break ( in the March, 1953, issue ) the fashion has taken off and now is winning in a breeze.  Time was you could find one store in town had a pair in grey flannel.  Now look them over: in cotton, pleatless front; India madras; short cords for action, wash and wear; blend fabric in stripes.

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Operation Overcoat | An Illustrated History II, circa 1951

 

Beginnings of Some

Famous Overcoat Fashions

 

Lord Raglan’s Design

Opposite of Lord Chesterield’s fitted coat

The Raglan.  Originally the coat tailored for Lord Raglan was a tweed wrap which kept off the foggy chill while its wearer was shooting grouse.  What remained of the basic style was the Raglan Shoulder which was a marked departure from the set-in type.  It is still a favorite among men who want a more casual look in their overcoats.

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Operation Overcoat | An Illustrated History, circa 1951

 

Emotional as well as economic changes often create the need for a change in fashion, and the textile world must be ready with the cloth.

The overcoat styles which are classified within the industry today as staples had their origin in circumstances which vary in many respects but have the common bond of functional need.  Demonstrating the philosophy that as the world changes in manner or in mood, fabrics must change.  We illustrate several instances wherein a new set of conditions created both the opportunity and the necessity for overcoats which are commonly worn today … but were novel departures at the time of their conception.

The Polo Coat. So far as written record reaches, it is believed that the soft, fine underhair of the camel was used to weave warm and luxurious cloths for the Tartar and Mongolian chiefs. Merchants whose caravans traveled through the passes of India to the north brought back lengths of the precious cloth for use by Indian potentates. Many centuries later, when British cavalry officers in India took up polo to while away their tedious stay, they became acquainted with camel’s hair cloth and discovered that it made up into an excellent lightweight yet warm wrap for wear between chukkers or after the strenuous game.

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Hats Off to Vintage Palm Beach Style

“So this fellow gave you the look?” — 

–“At his age it was more of a blink.” 

W. Clifford Klenk and his wife, Hope, in a photograph by Slim Aarons  –from the book “A Privileged Life.”

 

April 1968: Mr and Mrs Donald Lease with their Rolls Royce and two pet dogs outside their home in Palm Beach, Florida.  –Photo by Slim Aarons

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Puttin’ on the Ritz | Laurence Fellows

Esquire, 1933. Laurence Fellows

 

Laurence Fellows (1885-1964)

An iconic illustrator and advertising artist, born in Ardmore, Pennsylvania, Fellows attended the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts and continued his studies in England and France.  His work appeared in Judge, Life, Vanity Fair, Apparel Arts, and Esquire.  At the start of the century he lived and worked in Philadelphia.  One of the true masters of of menswear illustrators, along with Leslie Saalburg.  Do yourself a favor and pick-up a copy of Men in Style: Golden Age of Fashion from “Esquire”.

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Mad For Plaid | 1973

“If you’re going to wear madras, you don’t want to wear something that looks like your grandfather’s,” said Thom Browne. ”Actually, your grandfather’s madras would be cool,” he amended. ”It’s your father’s that you don’t want.”

”Preppy looks so cool when it looks effortless,” Mr. Browne said, ”but when it looks contrived, there’s nothing worse.”

 

After Six formal jacket and taffeta bow tie & Palm Beach madras patchwork (in)formal suit –from GQ magazine, 1973 (Image via Black Tie Guide)

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Actor and film critic Rex Reed relaxes in a wicker chair on Great Harbour Cay, in the Bahamas.  Photo by the legendary photographer Slim Aarons, 1973.

 

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Vintage Menswear Illustrations | Era of Apparel Arts & Esquire

Apparel Arts, 1949

Esquire, Autumn 1933

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David, Prince of Wales

The Prince of Wales’ full name was Edward Albert Christian George Andrew Patrick David Windsor but he went by David until he was crowned Edward VIII in 1936.

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“If there were no God,” said Voltaire some little time before he embraced Catholicism, “it would be necessary to invent Him.” Today the apparel industry echoes with religious fervor, “If there were no Prince of Wales, it would be necessary to invent him.” The National Association of Clothiers and Furnishers, during their meeting in Atlantic City in February of 1932, unanimously agreed that, of all the men in the world, England’s gallant Edward Albert alone deserved the title “Beau Brummel.” The one other male, it was naively recorded, who approached the Prince even remotely in the matter of influence was insouciant Mayor James Walker. And their report neglected to state whether the power exerted by this blithe individual should be praised as beneficial or condemned as corrupting and evil because of its jazzy sausage-causing lines and Broadway eccentricities.

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From “Apparel Arts”, 1933 via Dandyism

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1930s British Regimental Illustrations

 

 

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