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Posts Tagged ‘hand’

 

His sporting clothes brought out the peacock in him. ”I believe in bright checks for sportsmen,” he once wrote. ”The louder they are, the better I like them.”

The Duke practically invented comfortable clothes.  As Kerry Taylor, the Sotheby’s specialist who has spent seven years preparing for this sale, explained, ”He was reacting to his buttoned-up and old-fashioned childhood.”

Ms. Taylor said the Duke so disliked suspenders that he invented pants with elastic in the waist.  He didn’t like buttons on pants, so insisted on zippers, which were large and primitive in the 1930’s.  He preferred buttons on the sleeves of his jackets — four, to be precise.  He always wore cuffs on his trousers, which infuriated his father.  After World War II broke out, he had his pants made in the United States because textiles were rationed in England and cuffs required extra fabric.

 

Duke of Windsor Country suit

 Prince of Wales check sports suit.  Jacket by Scholte of London and stalking trousers (modified plus-fours) by Forster & Sons, 1923.  Altered in the mid 1930s when a zip was inserted.  Came with the removable blue cotton plus-four linings (more below).

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Crit Rawlings, president of Oxxford Clothes at the time, dropped $12,650 on a silk suit. In all, the Duke’s 25 suits, sport jackets and formal outfits took in $773,145.

 

002-172

A double breasted navy wool suit with Grenadier (front buttons) and Welsh Guards Officer (sleeve buttons) buttons, worn on the 1936 Nahlin cruise. Jacket by Scholte, London labelled H.R.H. The Prince of Wales 25.4.31 Made of lightweight navy worsted. The matching pair of trousers were made by Forster & Son, London.

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Kenneth Jay Lane, the jewelry designer, and a friend, said he never paid too much attention to the Duke’s wardrobe when he saw him, which he considers a great compliment.  ”When you see a perfectly dressed man, you don’t think about it,” he said.  But he recalled that the Duke was very aware of fashion.

”Once when I went to dinner at their house,” Mr. Lane said, ”I was wearing one of the first black velvet tuxedos, and he commented on my ensemble right away.”

Duke of Windsor Wedding Suit

The morning coat and trousers worn to his wedding, with a different waistcoat. Jacket by Scholte is a herringbone cashmere weave and is marked H.M. The King, 25.1.36. Waistcoat matches the jacket and marked same. The morning trousers are by Forster & Son and marked 9.6.32

This was bought by the CEO of Kiton for $27,600.  Mr. Paone, who also purchased several other items from the Duke’s wardrobe, knew the Duke of Windsor and admired his style. He plans to exhibit the suit and other items in his Kiton stores and in other stores that carry his clothing around the world.

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Lobb

 

Bespoke

 

John Lobb

 

At John Lobb they like to say that comparing ready-made footwear to made-to-measure footwear is “like comparing chalk to cheese.”  With Royal Warrants proudly displayed, the legendary shop in the shadow of St. James’s Palace is a treasure to behold and a mecca for those who can afford and appreciate the finest English footwear.  There’s a great old story at Lobb about a customer many years ago- he waltzed into the shop with an elephant’s ear over his arm requesting that Lobb make him a pair of shoes.  They did.  

 

 

 

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Tommy Nutter boldly cut against the traditional Savile Row grain.

Tommy Nutter will always be known as the flamboyant bee in Savile Row’s stuffy bonnet.  It was the late 60s, and narrow suits ruled the day.  Trained as traditional tailor, the sexy and innovative Nutter was not happy following the status quo of Savile Row and literally took matters into his own hands.

Tommy Nutter- a peacock if ever there was.

He created a sensation with his bold, signature look- wide shoulders and unapologetic lapels.  Nutter became the darling of the celebrity scene- clothing the likes of Mick & Bianca Jagger, Elton John and The Beatles.

Paul, Ringo and John- clothing by Tommy Nutter.

His influence can still be seen today, through a legacy of apprentices who trained under him, and in the young new designers of today who are discovering his work.   Tommy Nutter has forever left a mark on Savile Row, and defined a moment in time when bigger truly was better.

British rock musician Mick Jagger and Nicaraguan Bianca Perez Morena de Marcias just after their Wedding in St Tropez, France on 12th May 1971.

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