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No one has ever looked as good on the golf course as the legendary Bobby Jones.

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The highest degree of excellence typically carries with it a high price. Even a casual glance at Jones’ achievements in golf might give the impression that he must have done little else with his time. Actually, quite the opposite was true. Even when he was playing his best golf at the pinnacle of his career, Jones never regarded golf as anything more than what it was-just a game. Later in life he would reflect on his priorities saying, “My wife and my children came first; then my profession (by this he meant his legal profession, not golf); finally, and never in a life by itself, came golf.”

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“Competitive golf is played mainly on a
5 1/2″ course, the space between your ears.”  –Bobby Jones

 

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His sporting clothes brought out the peacock in him. ”I believe in bright checks for sportsmen,” he once wrote. ”The louder they are, the better I like them.”

The Duke practically invented comfortable clothes.  As Kerry Taylor, the Sotheby’s specialist who has spent seven years preparing for this sale, explained, ”He was reacting to his buttoned-up and old-fashioned childhood.”

Ms. Taylor said the Duke so disliked suspenders that he invented pants with elastic in the waist.  He didn’t like buttons on pants, so insisted on zippers, which were large and primitive in the 1930’s.  He preferred buttons on the sleeves of his jackets — four, to be precise.  He always wore cuffs on his trousers, which infuriated his father.  After World War II broke out, he had his pants made in the United States because textiles were rationed in England and cuffs required extra fabric.

 

Duke of Windsor Country suit

 Prince of Wales check sports suit.  Jacket by Scholte of London and stalking trousers (modified plus-fours) by Forster & Sons, 1923.  Altered in the mid 1930s when a zip was inserted.  Came with the removable blue cotton plus-four linings (more below).

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Crit Rawlings, president of Oxxford Clothes at the time, dropped $12,650 on a silk suit. In all, the Duke’s 25 suits, sport jackets and formal outfits took in $773,145.

 

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A double breasted navy wool suit with Grenadier (front buttons) and Welsh Guards Officer (sleeve buttons) buttons, worn on the 1936 Nahlin cruise. Jacket by Scholte, London labelled H.R.H. The Prince of Wales 25.4.31 Made of lightweight navy worsted. The matching pair of trousers were made by Forster & Son, London.

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Kenneth Jay Lane, the jewelry designer, and a friend, said he never paid too much attention to the Duke’s wardrobe when he saw him, which he considers a great compliment.  ”When you see a perfectly dressed man, you don’t think about it,” he said.  But he recalled that the Duke was very aware of fashion.

”Once when I went to dinner at their house,” Mr. Lane said, ”I was wearing one of the first black velvet tuxedos, and he commented on my ensemble right away.”

Duke of Windsor Wedding Suit

The morning coat and trousers worn to his wedding, with a different waistcoat. Jacket by Scholte is a herringbone cashmere weave and is marked H.M. The King, 25.1.36. Waistcoat matches the jacket and marked same. The morning trousers are by Forster & Son and marked 9.6.32

This was bought by the CEO of Kiton for $27,600.  Mr. Paone, who also purchased several other items from the Duke’s wardrobe, knew the Duke of Windsor and admired his style. He plans to exhibit the suit and other items in his Kiton stores and in other stores that carry his clothing around the world.

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”I was in fact produced as a leader of fashion, with the clothiers as my showmen and the world as my audience,” the Duke once recalled.

The Duke of Windsor stood only 5′ 5″ and favored comfort in his clothes, free movement and a style that he referred to as ”Dress Soft.”  His jacket waists were uniformly set high to elongate his silhouette.  His pockets were cut wider on the left side of the trousers to accommodate his ever-present cigarette case.  He wore elasticized girdles inset beneath his waistbands to preserve the flat appearance of his stomach.  He tweaked the proportions of all his clothes, Mr. Bolton said, for effect.  ”Even when he wore a lot of patterns, which are a no-no for small people,” making them seem squat, the Duke gave the impression of being a taller man.

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The Duke’s dressing room at the Paris residence with a suit (above) in medium-weight worsted with darker blue checking.  The jacket is dated 16/11/56 by Scholte, London and the trousers dated 3/4/57 by Harris, New York.  Jacket has side vents and substantially padded shoulders.  

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Drakescollag

Founded in 1977, Drakes remains under the directorship of Michael Drake and Isabel Dickson, two of the original founders. The original collection comprised of mens’ scarvesand accessories, a range of English handmade ties and linen handkerchiefs quickly followed. Drakes are now the largest independent producer of handmade ties in England. Over the years Drakes has won many accolades for design and export achievement, including the Queens award for Export and the BKCEC award for UK British fashion exports.

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Michael Drake’s original concept for the company style was that what ever was produced had to have a refined English look that would be endorsed by the best shops in Milan and Paris. The rationale was that if the two most discerning markets in the world were won over, satisfying the rest of the world would be relatively easy by comparison.

Having met Michael Drake, I can confidently state that the man is the real deal.  He places his brand’s quality and reputation before all else. 

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THE CUSTOMISATION PROCESS

AT BAMFORD & SONS, WHAT STARTED OUT AS A BASIC BLACKENING PROCESS, HAS NOW BEEN ENHANCED BY A NUMBER OF ‘SECRET’ FORMULAE AND IS NOW PERFECTED AS A HIGHLY ADVANCED MILITARY GRADE COATING. 

THE SCIENCE OF PVD OR ‘PHYSICAL VAPOUR DEPOSITION’ IS HIGHLY TECHNICAL. THE RESULT IS A STUNNING, ALMOST’ DIAMOND HARD’ FLAWLESS COATING. FURTHER CUSTOMISATION IS AVAILABLE IN THE FORM OF BESPOKE DIALS, LUMINESCENT INDICES AND CASE ENGRAVING.

THE COMBINATIONS OF DIAL COLOURS, LUMINOUS PAINT AND THE ABILITY TO HAVE UP TO 8 CHARACTERS OF YOUR OWN TEXT ON THE DIAL OF YOUR CUSTOMISED ROLEX, ENSURES THAT EACH FINISHED TIMEPIECE IS A HIGHLY EXCLUSIVE ONE OFF PIECE.

Link to Bamford Watch Department

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The Barbour International, in the range since 1936.

 

Steve Mcqueen in his Barbour International.

Look through the history of motorcycling and it’s obvious that the International jacket was de rigueur riding apparel for the serious rider.  Heard of Steve McQueen?  Barbour was worn by virtually every British international motorcycle team from 1936 until 1977, and they were the official motorcycle police jacket in 14 different countries.

The Barbour story begins with John Barbour who was born in 1849 and raised on a farm in Galloway in West Scotland, the second son of a family whose links through history can be traced back to the 14th century.

At the age of 20 he left the farm to try his luck across the border in the north east of England where in 1870 he started business as a traveling draper.  A year later, he married his childhood sweetheart, Margaret Haining who bore him 11 children and gave him the encouragement and belief to start J Barbour & Sons in 1894 in 5 Market Place, South Shields. 

The shop sold all manner of products loosely described as drapery including outerwear, boiler suits, painter’s jackets through to underwear, and, in the flourishing town of South Shields the shop which became known as ‘Barbour’s,’ thrived successfully.  Almost from the first, Barbour derived an important part of its income from the ship-owners, ship builders and seamen of the port, supplying Beacon brand oilskin coats designed to protect the growing community of sailors, fishermen, river, dock and shipyard workers from the worst of the weather.  Now over 100 years old, Barbour is a 4th generation family owned company who have developed a unique understanding of clothing that is truly fit for the country lifestyle.

Stated simply- Barbour is an authentic British brand providing a wardrobe of clothes for country pursuits, country living and for those who simply love the country, while still maintaining the core values of its heritage, durability, fitness for purpose and attention to detail.

A Barbour is more than a jacket, it’s a family heirloom to be passed down from father to son.

Link to The Official Barbour website

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Lobb

 

Bespoke

 

John Lobb

 

At John Lobb they like to say that comparing ready-made footwear to made-to-measure footwear is “like comparing chalk to cheese.”  With Royal Warrants proudly displayed, the legendary shop in the shadow of St. James’s Palace is a treasure to behold and a mecca for those who can afford and appreciate the finest English footwear.  There’s a great old story at Lobb about a customer many years ago- he waltzed into the shop with an elephant’s ear over his arm requesting that Lobb make him a pair of shoes.  They did.  

 

 

 

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You're a big man, but "You're in bad shape. With me it's a full time job. Now behave yourself."

Michael Caine

If your knowledge of Michael Caine is limited to Dirty, Rotten, Scoundrels - then you don’t know Jack about Caine.  To get a true picture of the man you need to go back, way back - 1971 to be exact.    

Michael Caine played sexy, smoking, drinking, shotgun-toting, trench-coat wearing British mobster – Jack Carter, out to avenge the death of his brother.  Get Carter is widely considered to be one of the greatest British films ever made.  Michael Caine’s steely performance and strong, sexy looks are spot-on, and visually the film is a sartorial splendor with clothing and furnishings that look like they’re straight from Savile Row.  

All of this is underscored by Roy Budd’s legendary and innovative soundtrack.  Budd incorporated sound effects from the movie (the famous train scene) along with the music – something no one else was doing.  Altogether, it’s a masterpiece and by all means required viewing.  

Other great Caine films include The Ipcress File (1965) and Alfie (1966).  So if you please, put aside Blame it on Rio and get acquainted with the classics.  You’ll never think of Sir Michael Caine the same way again.  

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