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Archive for the ‘accessories’ Category

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Esquire footwear

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The Nordic — Character in Shoes

With its square front and rugged styling, the Nordic reflects its ancestry.  Adapted from a Norwegian Ski Boot — and the sensation of Continental Resorts —  Taylor-Made Craftsmen have added an unusual comfort.  Smart with flannels and all sports attire, it fits into any man’s wardrobe.

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Esquire vintage footwear

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Square-Toed Blucher Oxford

green with white, adobe with sand, all white, brown or blue with white, sand with copper, and all grey.

Sandal with “Lastex” — (Tractor Tread Sole)

natural, blue, green adobe

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“New Yorkers love it when you spill your guts out there.  Spill your guts at Wimbledon and they make you stop and clean it up.”


–Jimmy Connors

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Mr. A. F. Wilding, Wimbledon Champion.

Mr. A. F. Wilding, Wimbledon Champion.

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“At a dinner party one should eat wisely but not too well, and talk well but not too wisely.” –William Somerset Maugham

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formal plaid menswear dinner jacket

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formal plaid menswear dinner jacket party

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plaid menswear formal

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“Morality is always the product of terror; its chains and strait-waistcoats are fashioned by those who dare not trust others, because they dare not trust themselves to walk in liberty.”  –Aldous Huxley

 

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plaid menswear formalwear fashion

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“He who observes etiquette but objects to lying is like someone who dresses fashionably but wears no vest.”   –Walter Benjamin 

 

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plaid vest

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“Once you accept the universe as being something expanding into an infinite nothing which is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy.”          –Albert Einstein

 

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plaid cap hat

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“If you’re going to wear madras, you don’t want to wear something that looks like your grandfather’s,” said Thom Browne. ”Actually, your grandfather’s madras would be cool,” he amended. ”It’s your father’s that you don’t want.”

”Preppy looks so cool when it looks effortless,” Mr. Browne said, ”but when it looks contrived, there’s nothing worse.”

 

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After Six formal jacket and taffeta bow tie & Palm Beach madras patchwork (in)formal suit –from GQ magazine, 1973 (Image via Black Tie Guide)

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Actor and film critic Rex Reed relaxes in a wicker chair on Great Harbour Cay, in the Bahamas.  Photo by the legendary photographer Slim Aarons, 1973.

 

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His sporting clothes brought out the peacock in him. ”I believe in bright checks for sportsmen,” he once wrote. ”The louder they are, the better I like them.”

The Duke practically invented comfortable clothes.  As Kerry Taylor, the Sotheby’s specialist who has spent seven years preparing for this sale, explained, ”He was reacting to his buttoned-up and old-fashioned childhood.”

Ms. Taylor said the Duke so disliked suspenders that he invented pants with elastic in the waist.  He didn’t like buttons on pants, so insisted on zippers, which were large and primitive in the 1930’s.  He preferred buttons on the sleeves of his jackets — four, to be precise.  He always wore cuffs on his trousers, which infuriated his father.  After World War II broke out, he had his pants made in the United States because textiles were rationed in England and cuffs required extra fabric.

 

Duke of Windsor Country suit

 Prince of Wales check sports suit.  Jacket by Scholte of London and stalking trousers (modified plus-fours) by Forster & Sons, 1923.  Altered in the mid 1930s when a zip was inserted.  Came with the removable blue cotton plus-four linings (more below).

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Crit Rawlings, president of Oxxford Clothes at the time, dropped $12,650 on a silk suit. In all, the Duke’s 25 suits, sport jackets and formal outfits took in $773,145.

 

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A double breasted navy wool suit with Grenadier (front buttons) and Welsh Guards Officer (sleeve buttons) buttons, worn on the 1936 Nahlin cruise. Jacket by Scholte, London labelled H.R.H. The Prince of Wales 25.4.31 Made of lightweight navy worsted. The matching pair of trousers were made by Forster & Son, London.

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Kenneth Jay Lane, the jewelry designer, and a friend, said he never paid too much attention to the Duke’s wardrobe when he saw him, which he considers a great compliment.  ”When you see a perfectly dressed man, you don’t think about it,” he said.  But he recalled that the Duke was very aware of fashion.

”Once when I went to dinner at their house,” Mr. Lane said, ”I was wearing one of the first black velvet tuxedos, and he commented on my ensemble right away.”

Duke of Windsor Wedding Suit

The morning coat and trousers worn to his wedding, with a different waistcoat. Jacket by Scholte is a herringbone cashmere weave and is marked H.M. The King, 25.1.36. Waistcoat matches the jacket and marked same. The morning trousers are by Forster & Son and marked 9.6.32

This was bought by the CEO of Kiton for $27,600.  Mr. Paone, who also purchased several other items from the Duke’s wardrobe, knew the Duke of Windsor and admired his style. He plans to exhibit the suit and other items in his Kiton stores and in other stores that carry his clothing around the world.

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